Unplugged in Cabo Polonio
We arrived to the remote beach village in a monster truck. There are no roads that link Cabo Polonio to the civilized world, it is isolated by a long stretch of sand dunes. This town of a hundred or so ramshackle cottages is situated on a peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic Ocean on the South East coast of Uruguay.
There is no electricity here. Some shops and homes have limited energy, powered by generators or small solar panels. One electric line runs to the village with a single purpose - to power the mighty lighthouse that warns ships to steer-clear of the peninsula, and the jagged rocks that surround it. The ocean floor around the peninsula is a grave-yard for ship wrecks dating back to the 1700’s - ships which did not heed the lighthouses warning!
Our monster truck dropped us off near the beach in the pouring rain, and we ran to the first hostel we saw - which was literally on the beach. Good news! They had two beds available for us. We climbed up a ladder to get to our treehouse room - which snuggly fit four beds into a tiny bunk that resembles a sleeping barracks in the belly of an old wood ship...
There is no electricity here. Some shops and homes have limited energy, powered by generators or small solar panels. One electric line runs to the village with a single purpose - to power the mighty lighthouse that warns ships to steer-clear of the peninsula, and the jagged rocks that surround it. The ocean floor around the peninsula is a grave-yard for ship wrecks dating back to the 1700’s - ships which did not heed the lighthouses warning!
Our monster truck dropped us off near the beach in the pouring rain, and we ran to the first hostel we saw - which was literally on the beach. Good news! They had two beds available for us. We climbed up a ladder to get to our treehouse room - which snuggly fit four beds into a tiny bunk that resembles a sleeping barracks in the belly of an old wood ship...
Cold, drenched, and exhausted - we took shelter in the kitchen, warmed up with hot tea, and tried to comprehend where we were. There were a few other travelers from Brazil, Germany, Chile, and of course the home team, Uruguay.
The best way to avoid rain is obviously to go swimming. I stripped down and ran into the ocean which felt like a hot tub compared to the cool rainy air. With lightning flashing in the distance, I wondered "is it actually dangerous to swim during a lightning storm?". Turns out it's pretty dangerous - I Googled it.
The rain cleared up, and Mother Nature started showing off. First she showed us a family of sea lions lazing around the rocks, and bopping their heads up and down. Then, to the west she flaunted a glorious sunset, and to the east, she one-up'ed herself with a rainbow over the ocean. But she wasn't done yet. As night crept in a sharp slice of moon appeared - you could pick your teeth with it. More stars came out to play, and now you could see "Cruz del Sur" (The Southern Cross) -- a constellation which is visible only in the Southern Hemisphere. This is how sailors of South America would navigate, since the North Star is not visible south of the equator. Meanwhile, round and round went the beaming shine of the lighthouse, and lightning still flickered at a safe distance. It was like an episode of that show Planet Earth.
The best way to avoid rain is obviously to go swimming. I stripped down and ran into the ocean which felt like a hot tub compared to the cool rainy air. With lightning flashing in the distance, I wondered "is it actually dangerous to swim during a lightning storm?". Turns out it's pretty dangerous - I Googled it.
The rain cleared up, and Mother Nature started showing off. First she showed us a family of sea lions lazing around the rocks, and bopping their heads up and down. Then, to the west she flaunted a glorious sunset, and to the east, she one-up'ed herself with a rainbow over the ocean. But she wasn't done yet. As night crept in a sharp slice of moon appeared - you could pick your teeth with it. More stars came out to play, and now you could see "Cruz del Sur" (The Southern Cross) -- a constellation which is visible only in the Southern Hemisphere. This is how sailors of South America would navigate, since the North Star is not visible south of the equator. Meanwhile, round and round went the beaming shine of the lighthouse, and lightning still flickered at a safe distance. It was like an episode of that show Planet Earth.
At night, candlelight provides a romantic glow about the porch of our hostel - just enough to find Suzanne, and my glass of wine. I saw a few shooting stars before climbing up into our treehouse bunk to doze off. I woke up at 5am to pee, and the sound of the ocean lured me out onto the beach. There was no internet, no phone service, nothing in my pockets, and I felt an immense sense of freedom.
After sunrise, I went on an early morning stroll to explore the peninsula. What was originally expected to be 1-2 day stop in Cabo Polonio turned into 3, and then 4, and then 5 days.
After sunrise, I went on an early morning stroll to explore the peninsula. What was originally expected to be 1-2 day stop in Cabo Polonio turned into 3, and then 4, and then 5 days.
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More Duff Tales:
- Spiderdan visits La Paz
- Mustache Sacrifice in The Great Blue Hole
- Sun-downer in Ipanema Beach
- Hang-gliding in Rio
- Carnivores Heaven: The Montevideo Market
Also check out the lovely Suzanne's photo blog: